Things to do in Botswana

Chobe Savanna Lodge: the Namibian camp run by a former flying doctor

The sunsets here are epic. It’s hard to beat watching the river turn gold at dusk; it’s a magical sight…

By Sue Ricketts

Owner of Target Africa

Chobe Savanna Lodge is located on the other side of the river from Chobe Game Lodge, so it’s actually in Namibia rather than Botswana, in the eastern Zambezi region.

There’s a lovely story behind the lodge; it’s run by Andre Birkenstock, who used to be a doctor for the camps, flying between the lodges to treat staff. He retired in 2017 and became the camp manager with his wife Anne-Marie – they’re a charming couple and guests really love them.

The camp itself is very remote and peaceful, and the journey here is an adventure in itself – you’re met at the border jetty and taken up the river in a boat to a small Namibian Passport building in the woods, where goats and chickens wander round. Then you get back in the boat and continue your journey to reach the lodge in what feels like the middle of nowhere.

Once you’re there, it’s laid-back, homely and rustic, with a thatched roof and 12 rooms, plus a swimming pool, gardens and a stargazing deck. Dr Birkenstock is big on astronomy, so they set that up on the deck and point out constellations and satellites – you can see the southern cross, and as it’s so remote, the stars are amazing.

Because it’s set right in front of Chobe River, the views are spectacular, and guests eat outside together at a big candlelit table overlooking the national park. It’s all à la carte, with dinners sometimes served in a surprise venue (and South African wines included with lunch and dinner). It’s very sociable – I’ve been here on my own and it’s a great holiday to do as a solo traveller because everyone’s always sharing stories from the day while they eat; the leopard they might have spotted or the pride of lions hiding in the bush.

Giraffes, antelopes, buffalo, hippos and crocodiles all call the area home too, as well as plenty of birds, including the African fish eagle. You can see all of this from the lodge with a pair of binoculars; I’ve seen a couple of leopard kills from up here, when a poor, hapless antelope has come down to have a drink and got pounced on! So even though there are no game drives from the camp – it’s all water activities on this side of the river – you see a lot.

There’s another big spectacle too – when the grasses on the other side of the river have all been exhausted from grazing and the water levels are low enough, you get herds of elephants swimming across to the Namibian side to seek out fresh grass. It’s quite a sight!

In terms of activities, there are no set times, so everything is very flexible. Guests can head out on morning motorboat trips, guided nature walks and fishing excursions. There are also sunrise and sunset cruises on skimmer boats – the sunsets here are epic. It’s hard to beat watching the river turn gold at dusk; it’s a magical sight, and as it’s so cut off here, you have this amazing spectacle all to yourself.

Available in these itineraries…

Itinerary

Botswana Conservation and Community
by Dagmar Marrocco

Length9 Days

Price range£6,095 - £8,595pp

Alfred & Sue Ricketts

Sue has worked as the UK Sales Representative for Desert & Delta Safaris for 18 years under her company Target Africa, which she launched in 2003 after working as a Product Manager for Jetsave and Southern Africa Travel. She has visited all of the operator’s nine properties and is drawn back to Botswana every year by the people.

Plan your holiday withAlfred&

Your journey will start with one of our UK team – someone like Louise, who's travelled extensively in Botswana. They’ll shape your ideas into the trip of a lifetime. But they won't do it alone. They'll draw on the expertise of our contacts on the ground, connecting you to the people who'll make your holiday one you'll always remember - the rangers who'll ensure you'll spot the best wildlife in Chobe, the village chiefs who'll give you an insight into local life and the helicopter pilots who can land you on an island in the Delta never visited by humans before.

Louise Dean

Africa Expert for Alfred&

When it comes to Africa, Louise is well versed. She’s flown into an empty Namibian beach to eat lunch on the aircraft wing, experienced Tanzania’s Great Wildebeest migration and listened to stories of the Anglo-Zulu War on the battlefields where it happened over a centennial ago. While she’s witnessed vast, incredible game including the last two northern white rhinos, it’s the people who she finds most inspiring; the native Maasai women whose lives are deeply rooted within the Olare Motorogi Conservancy and the local guides - resilient, highly knowledgeable, and ever smiling.
Harrison Mangwegape

Guide at Camp Xakanaxa

Harry was born in the Botswanan village of Thamaga, near capital Gaborone. He loved wildlife growing up and trained at the Okavango Guiding School in Maun to pursue his passion. He started working as a guide at Desert & Delta’s Savute Safari Lodge in 2010 and later joined Leroo La Tau in Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, before moving to Camp Xakanaxa.
Keitumetse 'KT' Mogale

Guide at Camp Okavango

Keitumetse has been guiding for 12 years. He grew up in the village of Mogotho in the Okavango Delta and began his career as a tracker. He now leads walking safaris and game drives at Camp Okavango and enjoys sharing his stories with guests from all over the world.
Florence Kagiso

Senior Guide at Chobe Game Lodge

Florence grew up in a farming family in the Okavango Delta and has been a guide at Chobe Game Lodge for 17 years. When she joined in 2004, she was the first female guide at the camp - she now mentors a team of 17 women. Her work was recognised in National Geographic Traveller’s recent Reader Awards 2021, where she won The Innovator award.
Andrew Baker

Founder and Managing Director of Helicopter Horizons

Andrew grew up in Zimbabwe before moving to the US to train as a pilot. Botswana had always held a place in his heart, so he began his aviation career as a fixed wing pilot in the Okavango Delta. He founded Helicopter Horizons in 2004, offering photographic flights - without doors - for organisations such as the BBC and National Geographic. The company now offer scenic flights for tourists in the Okavango Delta, Linyanti region and the Makgadikgadi Pans, as well as transfers between safari camps.
Ollie Maitapiso

Guide at Leroo La Tau

Ollie grew up in the village of Xaxaba in the Okavango Delta and began his career as a trainee poler in 1999, taking guests out on mokoro trips. He started guiding in 2004 and joined Camp Xakanaxa in the Moremi Game Reserve in 2007, before moving to Leroo La Tau in 2014.